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giovedì 8 marzo 2012

sur-REAL MEN

Martin Rose F/W 2012-13

"Two Hairy Young Women" by Irving Penn - 1995

"Mask/Hollywood" by Herb Ritts - 1989

Martin Rose F/W 2012-13

"Issey Miyake Fashion/Face covered with hair"
1991 ©Irving Penn


Jacques-André Boiffard - 1930

Walter Van Beirendonck F/W 2012-13

Sibling F/W 2012-13

Se vi abbiamo parlato di uomini reali nel mondo della moda, ora è giusto proporvi la loro controparte: l’uomo SUR-reale. Da Walter Van Beirendonck a Thom Browne, da Shaun Samson a Martin Rose fino a Sibling, l’altra faccia della medaglia è messa in mostra.
Come ne “L’Enigma di Isidore Ducasse” di Man Ray o negli impacchettamenti di Christo in cui si nasconde per rivelare, i volti apparsi nelle più recenti sfilate parigine e londinesi sono celati, coperti da chiome e capigliature arcobaleno o da opprimenti maschere sadomaso, alla stregua degli straordinari scatti di Jacques-André Boiffard, Irving Penn, Robert Mapplethorpe ed Herb Ritts. Ciò che affiora è l’emersione del subconscio, dell’io e dei più oscuri desideri sessuali. L’uomo si fa oggetto, feticcio, fonte di piacevole dolore con borchie e aculei pungenti, o di più soffici e solleticanti fantasie primitive con irsute magliette dall'anima selvaggia.

Article: Leonardo Iuffrida
Translation: Alessandro Mancarella

If we talked about real men in the fashion world, it is now right to present you their opposite: the SUR-real man. From Walter Van Beirendonck to Thom Browne, from Shaun Samson to Martin Rose up to Sibling, they all exhibit the other side of the coin.
As in “The Enigma of Isidore Ducasse” by Man Ray or in the packages of Christo, in which by hiding he reveals more, the faces seen in the recent Paris and London fashion shows are hidden, covered by hair and rainbow thatches or with constricting sadomasochistic masks, reminding the extraordinary shots of Jacques-André Boiffard, Irving Penn, Robert Mapplethorpe and Herb Ritts. The subconscious and inner obscure sexual desires come to the surface. The man becomes an object, a fetish, a source of pleasant pain with studs and sharp quills, or he tickles primal fantasies in a softer way with hairy t-shirts from the wild soul.

Fashion East Menswear Installations S/S 2010

Thom Browne F/W 2012-13

"Jim" by Robert Mapplethorpe - 1977

Steven Klein - Vogue Homme Japan

Jacques-André Boiffard - 1930

Walter Van Beirendonck F/W 2012-13

Thom Browne F/W 2012-13

Gosha Rubchinsky S/S 2009

Shaun Samson F/W 2012-13

"Fur-covered cup, saucer and spoon"
by Meret Oppenheim - 1936


Shaun Samson F/W 2012-13

"Venus with drawers"
by Salvador Dalì - 1936

8 commenti:

  1. I actually really love these photos and how they are all connected to each other. And how you show links between art and fashion. Magnificient

    RispondiElimina
    Risposte
    1. Thank you very much Joseph!
      It's always great to receive such a positive feed-back!
      Leonardo

      Elimina
  2. Indeed it's a really light watch! Made from a scratch-free material, also very useful ;)

    This is a really great post, you put great effort into it! Walter van Beirendonck is a great Belgian designer, such a shame he went bankrupt :-(

    We love your blog! We're going to follow :)

    See you, Nino & Christophe of Men Trend

    RispondiElimina