Henrik Vibskov F/W 2011-12
Henrik Vibskov F/W 2011-12
Henrik Vibskov F/W 2011-12
Henrik Vibskov F/W 2011-12
Henrik Vibskov F/W 2011-12
Henrik Vibskov F/W 2011-12
Henrik Vibskov F/W 2011-12Henrik Vibskov non si lascia sfuggire nessuna occasione per le sue geniali trovate, perciò non esistono vie univoche per leggere le sue collezioni, ma soltanto numerosi incroci. Questa volta abiti dal sapore ottocentesco si mescolano a tessuti tecnici per esplorazioni alpine; leggings colorati perdono il loro aspetto contemporaneo e richiamano i loro più diretti antenati: le mutande a gamba lunga dei nostri nonni. E mentre la sfilata proseguiva, modelli/performer erano intenti a sciogliere con piccoli phon ghiaccioli rosso ciliegia su una tavola imbandita. La sfilata è stata un esortazione ad osare, verbo comune per i marchi d’oltralpe, invece divenuto desueto in Italia e assolutamente da esportare.
Henrik Vibskov doesn’t miss any opportunity for his brilliant ideas. For this reason there is not only one-way to read his collections, but several crossroads. This time the clothes are a mix between nineteenth-century costumes and technical fabrics made for alpine scouting expeditions; the coloured leggings lose their contemporary look and recall their progenitors: the long john pants that our grandparents used to wear. And while the fashion show was going on, the models/performers were busy melting cherry red ice lollies with little dryers on a set up table. The catwalk has been an exhortation to be bold, common expression for transalpine brands, but now so rare in Italy and absolutely to export.
Henrik Vibskov doesn’t miss any opportunity for his brilliant ideas. For this reason there is not only one-way to read his collections, but several crossroads. This time the clothes are a mix between nineteenth-century costumes and technical fabrics made for alpine scouting expeditions; the coloured leggings lose their contemporary look and recall their progenitors: the long john pants that our grandparents used to wear. And while the fashion show was going on, the models/performers were busy melting cherry red ice lollies with little dryers on a set up table. The catwalk has been an exhortation to be bold, common expression for transalpine brands, but now so rare in Italy and absolutely to export.
Ami by Alexandre Mattiussi F/W 2011-12
Ami by Alexandre Mattiussi F/W 2011-12
Ami by Alexandre Mattiussi F/W 2011-12
Ami by Alexandre Mattiussi F/W 2011-12
Ami by Alexandre Mattiussi F/W 2011-12
Ami by Alexandre Mattiussi F/W 2011-12
Ami by Alexandre Mattiussi F/W 2011-12Dopo aver lavorato per Dior, Givenchy e Marc Jacobs, Alexandre Mattiussi ha presentato la prima collezione della sua linea AMI. Senza pretese ed esagerazioni ha creato il guardaroba ideale per la vita di tutti i giorni e per tutte le occasioni. E oggi giorno non è facile riuscire a trovare un unico marchio che riesca a rispondere a questo bisogno in un solo colpo. Se non fosse stato per l’eccezionale bellezza che contraddistingue la categoria dei modelli, sarebbe potuta sembrare la normale serata di un gruppo di giovani francesi ben vestiti in un tipico locale parigino. Non ci resta che sperare che i prezzi siano accessibili.
Alexandre Mattiussi presented the first collection of his own label AMI, after having worked for Dior, Givenchy and Marc Jacobs. He created the ideal set of clothes for everyday life and for all the occasions, without pretences and exaggerations. And nowadays it is not easy to find a brand able to satisfy this need at a single stroke. If it weren’t for the models’ exceptional beauty, it would seem the common evening of a young French well-dressed crowd in a typical Parisian café. We just have to hope for affordable prices.
Alexandre Mattiussi presented the first collection of his own label AMI, after having worked for Dior, Givenchy and Marc Jacobs. He created the ideal set of clothes for everyday life and for all the occasions, without pretences and exaggerations. And nowadays it is not easy to find a brand able to satisfy this need at a single stroke. If it weren’t for the models’ exceptional beauty, it would seem the common evening of a young French well-dressed crowd in a typical Parisian café. We just have to hope for affordable prices.
Pigalle Breath F/W 2011-12
Pigalle Breath F/W 2011-12
Pigalle Breath F/W 2011-12
Pigalle Breath F/W 2011-12
Pigalle Breath F/W 2011-12
Pigalle Breath F/W 2011-12Il breve tempo della respirazione. Questo il momento scelto per la seconda collezione Pigalle di Stéphane Ashpool e Loїc van Herreweghe, denominata “Pigalle Breath”, incentrata sul sudore, il vapore, il respiro e sul loro indiretto ruolo nella modificazione degli abiti quando compiamo attività all’aperto. Un fumo denso infatti ci segnala la presentazione in rue Henry Monnier. I due designer sembrano voler recuperare un rapporto di reale dialogo con gli abiti che viviamo, trovando in esso un’originale forma di ispirazione. La risposta è data da tessuti come il cotone cerato, che con la sua durezza assomiglia agli indumenti bagnati di sudore, e il French terry, il materiale delle nostre comuni felpe. Le proporzioni ampie e i cappucci definiscono la figura di un esploratore avventuriero. Da segnalare anche la loro prima linea di cappelli. Molto belli i berretti con i copri orecchie.
Breathing time. Stéphane Ashpool and Loїc van Herreweghe choose this moment as inspiration for their second Pigalle collection, named “Pigalle Breath” and based on sweat, steam, respiration and their indirect role in the modification of the clothes when we exercise outdoors. In fact the presentation in rue Henry Monnier was brought to our attention by a blanket of smoke. It looks like as if the two designers want to regain a relationship of real dialogue with our garments, finding in it an original way of inspiration. The answer seems to be given by fabrics such as the waxed cotton, whose stiffness is similar to sweaty pieces of clothing, and the French terry, which is the common material of our sweatshirts. The wide proportions and the hoods define the ideal explorer adventurer. To notice their first line of hats, especially beautiful those with ear flaps.
Breathing time. Stéphane Ashpool and Loїc van Herreweghe choose this moment as inspiration for their second Pigalle collection, named “Pigalle Breath” and based on sweat, steam, respiration and their indirect role in the modification of the clothes when we exercise outdoors. In fact the presentation in rue Henry Monnier was brought to our attention by a blanket of smoke. It looks like as if the two designers want to regain a relationship of real dialogue with our garments, finding in it an original way of inspiration. The answer seems to be given by fabrics such as the waxed cotton, whose stiffness is similar to sweaty pieces of clothing, and the French terry, which is the common material of our sweatshirts. The wide proportions and the hoods define the ideal explorer adventurer. To notice their first line of hats, especially beautiful those with ear flaps.
Text: Leonardo Iuffrida
Translation: Alessandro Mancarella
Photos: Leonardo Iuffrida & Alessandro Mancarella
Translation: Alessandro Mancarella
Photos: Leonardo Iuffrida & Alessandro Mancarella
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